Seahorse 3hp - how much water flow?

[mcalvert39]

So I finally have the JW15 up and running.
Before I started it for the first time, I stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the water pump. Now the engine runs ok (doesn't idle too good) but what concerns me is the lack of water flow out from the small rectangular tell tail vent. I made sure the pump worked ok before i refitted it by attaching the drive shaft to a drill and putting it in water. Span up to speed and got great flow.
Could the small internal tube that goes up to the engine possibly be blocked or some other coolant passage? Is there a way of unblocking this without stripping the entire engine?
So really.... how much water should I expect to see coming out of that vent? What is the normal path of the cooling system on this engine?

Regards

Matt.

[Joe Reeves]

Vent?.... On the 3hp model, there should be a series of small holes on the rear portion of the long exhaust housing. There should be a fine spray coming out, NOT a forceful shot as with other models.

Installing coils...... When doing that installation, notice where the coils sit on that aluminum plate. Notice that there is a slight bevel there. The metal vertical potion of the coil (yoke) should be aligned with the inside top portion of that bevel for proper magnet clearance.

Rough idle huh? Try the following.
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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[mcalvert39]

I am unable to upload a picture for some reason (permissions)
The small vent i speak of is about halfway down the shaft on the inside. There is a small amount of water spitting out of it along with exhaust gasses. My engine has no holes in the shaft that you mention.

Ill try adjusting the carb like you say but id like to get the cooling system sorted before i attempt any long runs again.

[Joe Reeves]

It had slipped my mind that the 1959, 60 3hp models didn't have the small holes for the exhaust/water relief... so I checked my book. Your 1959 has the relief setup as does the very early 7.5hp models... the vent you spoke of. All you see there is a constant spurting as the exhaust bursts blow a small amount of water out that area. Lousy setup really unless one enjoys hanging over the transom during the family outing.