Seahorse controls

[stuarth]

I have a Johnson Seahorse which is probably 35 years old but still runs ok though I need help with the controls.
I would attach a photo but can't for some reason. There are four knobs/controls on the rear of the motor

Choke? Should be pulled out when running or just pulled out to start?
Second knob? Idle speed? It seems to make little difference if I turn it left or right..
Starter cord
Stop button

It is the first two that stump me...
Anyone know since I have no manual

[stuarth]

When I get the motor running I need to have the choke pulled fully out otherwise it stalls. I have discovered that there is another knob on the side of the motor where the fuel hose connects but this doen't seem to do anything if I turn it fully one way or the other - though it does move a lever inside the cowling.
Any thoughts on these issues?
Thanks

[Joe Reeves]

Stuarth.... No offense intended here, but it is obvious that you know nothing about outboard engines so I will adjust my language to suit... not to insult I assure you.

The portion of the engine with the choke knobs, etc.... That is the front of the engine. The portion of the engine containing the spark plugs is the rear of the engine.

Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs..... left would be "Port"..... right would be "Starboard". Always use the nautical terms (port & starboard) as the term of left or right changes as one changes their position.

On the Port transom bracket, there is usually a plate which contains the model & serial number of the engine... What is the model number? That needed model number may be elsewhere depending on the year of the engine.

The knob on the side of the engine is no doubt simply a threaded screw to increase or decrease the throttle idle setting.

The rest depends on you getting that model number to us so that we know exactly what we're talking about.

[stuarth]

None taken. Yes, it is the first time I tinker with an outboard though get along fine with car engines and gearboxes!
The number I found stamped on both sides of the engine block at the rear is 328820-1 though this sounds suspiciously like a part number..
Indeed the knob on the port side controls the trolling speed and is just a mechanical stop for the throttle lever.
The knob on the front of the engine which seems to be the rich/lean knob can be turned at least twenty times from stop to almost coming out. I read that this knob should only turn about twice and once set is rarely moved. I would love to know how to actually set this if you know?
It is a Johnson 9;9

[stuarth]

OK, I screwed up....
The number is J10BALCTR

The motor runs OK but only with at least half choke and the lean/rich knob turned two turns from shut (full left). Turn more to the rich side and it stutters and stalls

[Joe Reeves]

The following notes of mine may be confusing at first... Read it over a few times until it makes sense to you... or get back to me if need be. I"m here every day off and on.

The model number is J10BALCTR.... The motor runs OK but only with at least half choke and the lean/rich knob turned two turns from shut (full left). Turn more to the rich side and it stutters and stalls

The model number of J10B1LCTR indicates you have a 1983 9.9hp Johnson, Long Shaft outboard.

The engine has solid state ignition (no points or condensers). It needs to be pulled over fast in order for the stator (under the flywheel) to energize the powerpack. A slow cranking engine will have no ignition.

First thing to do is to put that Slow Speed needle valve in its initial setting where it belongs.... turn clockwise and gently seat all the way in, then back it out (counter clockwise 1-1/5 turn)... to be adjusted later (as below).

The fuel/oil mixture is 50/1.... 1 pint of good quality 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline. Always (with a empty tank) put in 1 gallon of gasoline first, then the oil. If you put oil into a empty tank... when you then put is the gasoline, that would force the raw oil into the fuel line and carburetor

Here we are assuming that you have a tank full of pre-mixed fuel/oil with the fuel line and primer bulb connected to the engine.

Starting procedure, Engine in upright running position:
1 - Have the engine in neutral.
2 - Pump the fuel primer bulb up until it is hard.
3 - Turn the tiller handle counter clockwise as far as it will go to increase the throttle.
4 - Pull the choke lever out as far as it will go (full choke)
5 - Pull the starter cord out gently at first to have the bendix gear engage the flywheel teeth.
6 - Now... Continue to pull the starter cord out BUT pull it fast and fiercely to turn the flywheel as fast as possible.

If all is as it should be, the engine should start within three or four pulls, perhaps less. Being the first time running, you may need to play with the choke lever (in, out, halfway, etc) and have the engine running faster than normal... this is where you make the final adjustment to the slow speed needle valve.

NOTE that the slow speed needle valve is strictly to adjust the fuel/air mixture for the slower rpms..... This needle valve has absolutely nothing to do wi the high speed! Adjust as follows:
********************
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Clockwise is "Lean"...... Counter clockwise is "Rich!"

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
********************

[stuarth]

Thank you! The motor runs but I still need half choke so I will check the fuel pump and filter this morning as a first step. Can I remove the idle needle by screwing it out just to check it is not gummed up in some way? I am trying to avoid removing the carburetor since it seems you have to remove the starter spring and it is difficult to do so without the spring releasing.
The motor is quite old but I have had it for 30 years and use it maybe 15 minutes per year on a freshwater lake so I would guess it does not need en entire carb overhaul? Fair assumption?

[Joe Reeves]

Your explanation indicates that the carburetor requires removal, cleaning, and rebuilding (kit). The high speed jet is fouled of which fuel must pass thru first in order to obtain flow thru any other passageway..

This is the reason the engine will only run if the choke is applied as you mention.

[stuarth]

Thank you very much for the advice - I will go for it. One tiny nit - is the removal f the recoil unit the horror they say? In other words, will it or not explode a spring in my face?
I will try to video it and post results.
Once more, thanks

[stuarth]

Very good adivce here I took out the carb, cleaned it with air and petrol and changed the float, needle valve and so on with a kit from China. The only bug was the brass float valve item instantly cross threaded and didn't seem right so I used the old one.
The engine now idles perfectly and runs well except for a minor glitch - at half throttle or so the speed varies all by itself, just occasionally speeding up. Any clues?
Thanks again

[Joe Reeves]

The mid-range rpms fluctuating, I would suspect is due to a slight a lean setting of the slow speed needle valve. Reset as follows:

********************
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
********************

[Joe Reeves]

Is the removal f the recoil unit the horror they say? In other words, will it or not explode a spring in my face?

I meant to answer this earlier... forgot!

That manual starter would be the over the flywheel type... simplest of all the manual starters. I assume you need to install a spring and/or the pull cord? If so, this (from my database) should be of some use to you.

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(Cord Installation -Over The Flywheel Type Only)
(J. Reeves)

For what it's worth, my method of installing a new cord on the over the flywheel type manual starters is as follows.

Arms outstreched (approx 6'), I cut a proper size nylon cord that length, tie a figure 8 knot in one end, then melt the ends with a flame to prevent unravelling, using a rag to form a somewhat point on one end. No cord in manual atrter pulley.... wind pulley to it fullest point. Keeping a good grip on the pulley, let it slide back to where the cord hole in the pulley aligns with the manual starter housing cord hole, then install the cord.

Now, keeping a good grip on the cord, slowly let the manual starter rewind pulling the cord in. In most cases, the cord will be too long so install the pull handle accordingly so that the handle retracts completely.

This is the way I've performed this procedure for quite a number of years and regardless of the design of the pulley, I encountered no problerms.
********************
(Manual Starter Assembly)
(This pertains to the type of Manual Starter Housing that sits over top of the flywheel)
(J. Reeves)

Lay the manual starter housing upside down on the workbench.

Wind the spring "counter clockwise" in your hands so that you can lay it into the housing, having the outer spring end hooked over the retaining pin. Make sure the spring is in there properly (You do not want it to fly out of there).

Holding the spring down, with pliers carefully bend about 3" or 4" (more or less) on the inner portion of the spring in towards the center of the housing. This will allow the pulley pin to enter the retaining hole at the end of the spring properly.

Lay the pulley down over the spring, making sure that the pin on the pulley is secured to the retaining hole on the end of the spring. Install the spindle (center bearing gizzmo), bolt, nut, etc, whatever your particular manual starter may use.

The cord (nylon) should be roughly 72" long. Have a figure 8 knot in one end. Heat the other end so that you could form a point on it, wiping it with a rag when it's burning or hot to a melting point.

Now, with the starter housing still upside down, keeping a firm grip on that starter housing and also the pulley, start winding the pulley in the normal counter clockwise direction. Wind it as far as it will go, then carefully let it back off until the starter pulley cord hole is aligned with the housing cord outlet.

Hold the pulley there and insert the cord in through the inside of the pulley and out through the starter housing. Pull the cord through completely and get a good grip on it. Now let the pulley retract the cord, but hold onto the cord (don't let it fly in there).

If it's obvious that the cord is too long, figuring what will be needed within the handle, shorten it as needed.

Pull the cord out so that about two feet of the cord is exposed. Tie a slip knot so that the cord can't retract back.

Insert the cord into the handle and secure as needed, then release the slip knot allowing the cord to be withdrawn fully. That's all there is to it..

********************

[stuarth]

Sorry to come back to this but I have problems anew. I changed my fuel pump since it was just a cheap as getting a new joint; The engine ran fine and then I left ift for ten days. When I tried starting it again, the engine seemed seized! I turned it over using the flywheel by hand and then it started but it runs really rough and is noisy. My conclusion is that the carb needs to be rebuilt again (properly this time..) but is there anything else it could be? The noise it makes is almost like there is something loose inside the engine but it does run and in gear it revs fine and pulls fine.
I dismounted that carb and the float is OK as is the needle but I will strip it completely when I get a new kit.

BTW, you don't need to remove the starter pull mechanism to remove the carb. Do this:
Unscrew the cam follower - you can loosen it using a screwdriver as a lever and then do it by hand
Remove it
Take a 7/16 spanner with a ring head and grind it so it is slightly slimmer and it will fit on the bolt under the cam follower. An open spanner will be stopped by the cam body unless you have a very lucky bolt position
Bingo!