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Old 09-16-2017, 02:41 AM
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Posts: 22
Default Johnson 2001 15HP Driveshaft

I have removed the gearcase on my outboard in preparation for a water pump overhaul kit install.

Can I remove the driveshaft (Part 43) without upsetting the washers, bearing and pinion (Parts 18, 19 & 17)? Doing so would make it much easier to clean up the water pump housing mating surfaces.

I'm thinking the answer the yes, but thought I'd check just in case.

Any tips on removing the salt/corrosion build up on those aluminium surfaces exposed to salt water? I have been scabbling it away with a wood tongue depresser but it is a slow process
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Last edited by brw0513; 09-16-2017 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:15 AM
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 466

Yes, the driveshaft is designed to simply slip out of the gearcase. The bearings, thrust washer(s) etc stay where they are (on the pinion gear), and the pinion gear stays put where it is.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:24 AM
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Thanks Joe
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Default I'm in the same Boat, I think.

I've got a J10selcom on the bench right now. New territory....
It needs a water pump but while I'm there I'm converting from
the long shaft to the standard length. I switched from a
sail boat to fishing boat but want to keep that wonderfull
9.9 motor.
The interior of the exhaust houseing is unpainted so we can probably
use carb cleaner to help cut the muck in there; for cleaning out.
The drive shaft is held inplace by the key in the impeller against the
water pump case cup; until its removed (I think).
It helps to keep the gear case upright in a vise (or such) but it
seems that even with a gental shaft and shift rod removal
the possibility of jarring there recievers in the gearcase; out of place; is there.
There's an internet page called, 'Leeroy's Ramblings' which is a
must read. Check it out.... Let me know how it goes with your
project, if you got the time.
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Old 10-03-2017, 05:17 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 22

Hi there C.

My little 15HP project has gone reasonably well. As Joe confirmed, the driveshaft just lifts out and goes straight back in.

Between YouTube videos, the workshop manual and Joe Reeves I got all my questions answered.

Only two minor issues.

The first was getting the gearcase back on the leg. The three way juggle of driveshaft spline alignment, water pump outlet pipe to grommet alignment and gear selector rod coupler alignment was a chore for a few tries. But a small turn of the flywheel was all it took to get things to slip home. I think the later Mercury outboards have a good gear selector arrangement in that the link gets made after the leg is bolted back in position.

The second issue is a small weep from the carb bottom cover (float bowl chamber). In my hesitation to do the screws up too tight and risk cracking the cover, I may have under-tightened them. I don't think it is worth doing anything about it though. I seem to get one drip every 2 days.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:03 PM
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 466

I should have mentioned.... When installing the gearcase, have it in gear so that simply turning the propeller will align the driveshaft and crankshaft splines.
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