Well i'm guessing you're talking about the front cover of the carbs (I think it's an air intake/ silencer cover?)? This is what I think you're talking about?

If fuel is coming out of that cover, then most probably one or more of your float needle valves, in one or more of your carbs, is stuck open? If this is what's wrong, then it's time to have your carbs cleaned, and clean/replace the float needle valves.

One thought, if your motor has been running fine (recently & often), but this just started and the motor has NOT been sitting up (unused) for a few months, then it is possible that recent fuel purchased may have had trash in the fuel, and this trash may have lodged in needle valve(s) causing this problem. It still will require the carbs to be cleaned, but the carbs may be easier to clean the trash, as opposed to cleaning old fuel that is like varnish.

Good luck. Post back if need to.

what is the torqe requirement for the many nuts holding this silencer on? are there individual bowls on each carb? it only leaks when motor is running! thank u

As I said, I was guessing at what you were taking about. Maybe you could post a pic of this part, as I would like to be sure of what you're talking about, and the many nuts you mention. Also, yes there should be a float bowl for each carb.
However, if it is the float that is stuck open, letting fuel run out, it should also run out a little by just pumping the fuel bulb up tight.

Post back when able.

here is pic20150911_133202.jpg

Ok, this is the intake silencer cover. I don't know what of any torque specs for this cover. For this you would have to have the manual for your motor. It is a plastic cover so tightening should not damage the plastic. It is more important to snug them down, and use a liquid thread lock to keep them tight (loc-tite, or similar).

This cover, and the back half of this cover bolt to your carbs, and they both have to be removed to access your carbs for cleaning.

post back if you plan to clean your carbs. Good luck.

I am going to clean and rebuld the carbs today. I am going to puurchase 6 carb kits, then get started, any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

Well you may only have 3, two-barrel carbs to start with, each carb takes care of two cylinders, if not mistaken.
Your next step is to take a few pics (left, front, right), as you progress, just to remind yourself how everything goes back together (this helps for fuel lines and linkages, etc).

Don't rush, everything has a purpose, and the way they go together is important.

After you remove the front silencer cover, take another pic. Then again after the back cover. Make sure your pics are good, you will need them to compare later.

When you get this far let us know, there are other steps to follow.

Good luck, post a few pics, and any questions.

Ok, the reason I suggested you post back once you got so far (covers removed), was to tell you not to disassemble the linkages (only the connectors that link the carbs to each other), and when removing any jets (air-mixture) count the turns it takes to lightly seat them closed (record this info for each carb- they should be almost the same). And, only work on one carb at a time.
When you remove the bottom float bowl cover, hold upright (fuel may be in it), notice if clean, or not? The more trash in the bowl, the higher the chance of jets and pas-sages having the same in them.

Post back what you find.

i have 6 single carbs. took them off 1 at a time they looked to be real clean, installed new rebuild kits ( floats, needle, seats, and gaskets.) went ahead and sprayed carb cleaner through pick ups and jets. fired it up in back yard with a garden hose and she sounded great!! went to the lake yesterday and seems like its starving for gas at high speed, and no good hole shot. i need to idle it up a little as it is idling at about 500 rpm and still dies too often while idling!!

Ok, when you replaced the needle valves and seats, did you reset the float levels?
You mentioned spraying carb cleaner through the jets, but did you remove the jets to clean them, and spray through the pas-sages??

If you did clean all the jets, and you're sure the float settings are all set properly. Them you need to look at the fuel pump. If your fuel pump is weak, it may not be sending enough fuel to all carbs?

For the idling problem, if you removed all 6 air mix screws, what were they set at originally (the #turns till lightly seated), were all set identically?

There is one idle adjustment screw for all 6 carbs, if all of the above steps were completed successfully.

Does your motor have a primer system? Some had this, i'm not sure if yours does?

Post back, and let us know.

well, this may be the problem, i am not sure if I set the floats correctly. i set them to be flush with the housing when holding the fuel bowl upside down. i set them with the screw holding the pin that goes through the floats. now I am wondering if i shuold have tightened the screw all the way up and adjusted the floats by bending the little metal piece that the needle sits on. the carborators were really clean, (no gunk or varnish in them. the main problem with the carbs was the gaskets that go between the float bowl and the carb. thank you

what are you talking of when you say a primer system. it has the sqeeze ball on the fuel hose. there is also some type of resorvor that has a little red adjuster with a valve stem connected to it. i think this is for electric choke or manual choke.

what are you talking of when you say a primer system. it has the sqeeze ball on the fuel hose. there is also some type of resorvor that has a little red adjuster with a valve stem connected to it. i think this is for electric choke or manual choke.

The float adjustment you make has to be done with the needle valve seat all the way properly tightened, so it doesn't come loose from vibrations. Yes, you need to bend the tab on the float just a little for proper adjustment (set with measurement, by book). Then I test each. I always hold each carb upright (level by sight), using a hose to blow into where fuel goes into each carb, I will blow and slowly raise the float until it shuts off my blowing completely. If float is above level (by sight) it's too high, I know fuel level will be too high (run out of silencer cover). If float is level when I can't blow through, then I know adjustment is good. If float is below level when I can't blow through, then motor will starve for fuel at higher RPMs, and I'll adjust float.

Any time the needle valve seat is removed, and re-tightened, out will change the float adjustment, and it has to be reset, or checked. It has to shut off fuel when float is level.

The book adjustments are good, but I've learned air leaks by needle valve easier than fuel, and by checking float level settings this way, I've saved many second, and third rebuilds to correct adjustments by doing this.

Yes, the primer assy is for initial start/ choke. But some of the earlier mechanical primer assy used to always give a shot of fuel when pushing throttle in gear from idle position.

Your best move now, it's go back and tighten all the seats down good, and re-adjust floats properly. If you didn't remove any jets, this is the time to correct that.

Good luck, post back.