I am new to outboards but old to Motorcycles and find that 9 times out ov 9 it is a carb issue . . . even draining the carb will not necessarily show a problem . . .
. . . such as a clogged jet or what have you.

Dr. V,

Thanks for the reply......though better late than never. I bet I've got you beat on being 'old' to motorcycles....as I've got over 50 years of turning wrenches on them. Also, pretty savvy with carbs myself.

Turns out that the 'problem' here was/is one of multiple issues. The 'running' symptom, or lack there-of, was the result of a bad VRO pump. After a purchase of a NEW VRO pump....for all of about $500....the 'running' problem was resolved. The engine now runs as it should.

However, that said.....there is still the issue of the 'check engine' light AND the warning horn....which I'm told are a function of a failure within the 'tach' instrument itself. Seems there are only so many 'triggers' for a failure that would cause the check engine light. And, seems that the 115HP engine has very few of these triggers. So, having the horn go off and the light on constantly is probably a fault within the gauge vs another input from an engine sensor. The oil level is OK....and the oil 'pressure' as provided by the VRO pump is also OK....and the 'fuel pressure' is OK. So.....no other sensors that exist on the 115 to trigger the 'check engine' light....other than a failed instrument itself...... or so I'm told. But, maybe by Easter someone else will add some further information on the subject.

Dr. V..... again, I appreciate your input. Thanks for being the 'only' respondent here on this Forum. Glad my boat wasn't sinking!!....lol

Later,

WC

The "check engine" light comes on, with this particular model, because the motor is pulling too much vacuum. If the sensor on the motor see more than 4 in/hg it will set the light. I would look for a fuel restriction between the VRO and the tank. I would get a vacuum gauge ( found at most auto parts stores) and connect it at the fuel line feeding the VRO and observe the reading. If its 4 in/hg or more keep moving the gauge toward the tank eliminating each fuel component ie: fuel filters, primer bulb, and so on. Im not sure what kind of tank you have , but if it has an anti-siphon valve this may be the culpurate as they are bad about sticking. If all checks good I would suspect a bad vacuum sensor located behind the air box between the carbs. I wouldnt replace the gauge until I know everything else is in order because they are expensive and probably won't fix the problem.

Rrfree82,

Thanks to you too for responding here. I have to be honest and say that I'm having a bit of a problem in 'confirming' just what 'are' and 'are not' all the potential triggers for the check engine light on my particular model of engine. However, that said, there does seem to be some consensus that my model and year are really quite limited in the number of sensors or triggers for this symptom.

If I understand your comment correctly, when you say 'motor', you're actually referring to the VRO pump itself? If so, then as I stated, this has been replaced. And, a test was completed by the marina where the work was done which 'supposedly' confirmed that the amount of suction in the fuel system was within the factory limitations. So, according to the Service Manager at the marina, continued occurrence of the warning horn and 'check engine' light illumination are the result of a faulty instrument and nothing else.

Believe me, this problem has frustrated me since I first purchased this boat in the summer of 2014. On the initial test drive with it's former owner the light and horn went off initially at the ramp, then a couple more times during our test ride. However, it's duration was pretty limited....like maybe 15 to 20 seconds or so. Then, all returned to 'normal'....and all the while the boat ran fine. And, it's owner explained this as a wiring anomaly that he'd had checked out and confirmed as NOT being a true problem. So, perhaps foolishly, I took him at his word for it. However, I did also check with my local Johnson/Evinrude Factory Authorized and recommended service facility....and they confirmed that this was likely the case. I then used the boat very little from the time of my purchase (like only one or two brief trips last summer), and only a couple brief trips this past summer, with one 'extended' cruise for a few hours one afternoon. And, no problems noted at all. This all came up last month when I went to go fishing for the first time out on the Chesapeake Bay.

So, 'if' the marina did check the 'suction/vacuum' level on the fuel pump and within the fuel system, and 'if' it IS within the prescribed levels as per it's design, then is there anything else OTHER than the instrument itself that could be the cause of this problem? Let me just add that prior to replacing the VRO pump, I did actually attempt to run the boat with a 'remote' fuel tank, some new lines, and bypass virtually the entire 'on-board' fuel tank system. I eliminated everything from the nipple at the engine forward, and STILL had the prior engine problem that precipitated the replacement of the VRO pump itself. Now, with a new pump AND the new little valve that came in the pump kit, I'm still getting the check engine light and the warning horn 'INTERMITTENTLY'....but consistently during start-up and for a minute or so when running. The horn then goes off but the check engine light stays illuminated.....most of the time. It did shut off on my test run after picking up the boat from having the VRO pump replaced....but it stayed on the whole time I took it to the boat ramp a few days later. So, what now?

Thanks to both you guys for the help!! I do appreciate your taking the time to respond. Kindly, Tom D.

The only reason the check engine light comes on for this particular engine if for excessive vacuum. It has separate lights for low oil, no oil, and overheat. These are the only functions this system has The gauge should self test when the ignition switch is turned on, horn beeps oncce and all lights come on and go off one at a time. I would try to run the motor with another tank as you did before to see if the light still comes on, this will eliminate a boat fuel system problem. There is a vacuum switch on the motor that tells the gauge the engine drawing too much vacuum. This switch may be faulty also. The gauges do tend to go bad but like I said they are pricey and I would eliminate everything else first. Just because the VRO is new doesn't mean there's not a fuel restriction else where. The anti-siphon valve is the most common cause of a check engine light on this set-up. When I get this complaint that's usually the first thing I look at. If you use an auxiliary tank and hose to test with that will eliminate the anti-siphon valve.

rfree, thanks!! Can you give me just a bit more information about this 'anti-siphon' valve, as in 'where is it?' and 'what does it look like?'. As of this past Friday, I pulled the boat off the lift and it's now in the driveway on it's trailer for the winter. However, I can still start it on muffs.......and run that fuel line test. I'm thinking the easiest thing would be to just hook it up on a portable tank and run it. If the light goes off......then I guess I'll have to get more into the tank, lines, filters, pump-bulbs, fittings, etc. But, if it does stay on, then I guess I can condemn the gauge? Not that I'm looking to spend the couple of hundred dollars for a new one.....but some times peace of mind is worth a few hundred dollars. I just want to make sure that by hooking the 'test' fuel line up at the engine...... I'm not still leaving in another component here that could still be the problem. There is a rubber boot cover where the lines and cables enter the engine area. The main fuel line attaches under that cover with a hose clamp. That's were I removed it last time....and where I'll do it again unless I'm still missing something. Please let me know any more specific information.....and again.....MANY thanks!! Tom D.

The anti-siphon valve is located on the fuel tank. If you can find where the fuel line connects to the tank there should be a barbed fitting screwed into the tank pick-up. Remove the hose from this barbed fitting then unscrew the hose barb from the pick-up. Inside that barbed fitting should be a ball and a spring. This ball will get varnished up and cause it to stick and create a fuel restriction. If you pull it out I would go ahead and replace it because if its not a problem now it will be. Someone may have removed it but I don't suggest this as it is against coast guard regulations.
As far as where your connecting the fuel line, that's the best place. The only thing past that is a fuel filter/ screen. One other thing to consider are your fuel lines. If you use fuel containing ethanol, it reeks havoc on rubber fuel lines causing them to come apart on the inside. If all checks well with the boats fuel system then you can suspect the gauge or vacuum sensor on the engine.

OK, I get it. I did just replace the fuel filter / water separator cartridge. With that being 'new', I'm not too 'suspect' of that. I also checked the fuel line 'from' the tank 'to' the fuel filter. There is a 'connector' in that line....where it looks like perhaps someone had already made a repair to that line.....like maybe it might have collapsed internally and the prior owner (or someone) cut out that bad section of line. I think I'll take a measurement and just replace the entire line.....and check for that anti-siphon valve at the same time. BTW, when the VRO pump was replaced, there is a filter screen in the fuel supply source junction......it looks like the end of a garden hose....and under it is a plastic sediment filter. Just letting you know that I had checked that filter as well, and it was fine. No problem there either. So, hopefully replacing the line will do it.

I suppose there are a number of different fuel pick-up types......all having different sending units on them, etc. But, I was wondering if the tank-end of the pick-up might also be potentially problematic? I recall this from working on some early fuel-injection units....where the tank pickup got 'clogged'.....or deformed and obstructed. I DO worry about alcohol in the fuel.....and use some anti-ethanol additives in the fuel to address that. I know it's no 'guarantee'.....but, I do it for some level of consideration of the problem.

Thanks rfree. I appreciate the on-going dialog!

Tom

There is usually a screen on the end of the pick up tube. You'll have to take the pick up out of the tank to check that. Hope you chase down your problem, best of luck.