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I had the engine running good in the driveway. I threw it in gear at idle a couple of times so I headed for the water. Every time I tried to give it gas with the throttle it choked and died. At one point I trimmed the engine down and it took off and ran great for about 50 yards. When I went back to idle it never ran good again. It finally wouldn't crank at all. I brought it home and it fired up immediately. When I manipulate the linkage on the carbs it takes off ( there is a little hesitation for a moment but then it is good. When I go for the throttle it just dies.
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Your explanation indicates clogged high speed jets... OR... a sticking timer-base under the flywheel.
You can check the timer base simply (engine NOT running) by having someone slowly advance the throttle as you closely observe the timer base. It should move smoothly to the rubber full spark advance screw stop and back to the idle position.
The four (4) high speed jets (removable 1/4x20 threads) are located in back of the 4 carburetor drain screws, one on each side of the carburetor float chambers.... way in back of the drain screws, horizontally near the bottom center of the float chambers.
I carefully use a piece of single strand steel wire to do that cleaning. -
Thanks Joe. That timing mechanism was all but frozen up. I sprayed some corrosion X on all of the contact points and that didn't get it free enough for the spring to come into effect. I tried a little PBblaster too. Its still sticky. Any advice?
I'm fairly sure you have me on the problem. I am assuming that it should be free enough for spring to pull it back to the throttle mechanism.Comment
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Some of this is repetitious due to being taken from my database and I didn't bother to edit it. However, I'm sure you'll be able to pick out the high spots.
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(Sticking Timer Base)
(J. Reeves)
With the engine NOT RUNNING but in forward gear (spin the prop when putting into gear), have someone advance the throttle slowly while you observe the timer base. It should slide smoothly from the idle position allt he way to the full advance spark position.... up against that rubber bumper (full advance stop screw).
If it sticks, it is usually due to one of the four "L" clamps being slightly too tight. You may be able to pry the offending clamp upwards slightly with a long thin blade screwdriver.
At the most, you would need to remove the flywheel, stator, and timer base, then clean everything thoroughly. Use grease on the brass bushing portion of the timer base and the related top portion of the powerhead's upper main bearing assembly, BUT use only OIL on the timer base nylon bearing retainer.
Upon assembly, check all of the "L" clamps for being overtight and install a very thin spacer washer under any offending clamp that cause the timer base to stick.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
joe_omc32 | eBay
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flywheel nut
I am about to take the flywheel off to clean and lubricate the timing mechanism. The closest socket I have for the flywheel nut is a 35mm. It has a little slop so I don't want to use it. I'm going to have to buy one. What size is the flywheel nut and what is the thread size on the puller threads? All the youtube videos I can find are for Mercs or smaller engines.Comment
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I'm located in Central West Florida, USA and don't know anything about the "mm" setup... and come to think of it, I never paid any attention to the "inch" size of it either. The socket was always in one particular spot and I'd just grab it.
However, to answer your question, in "inches" the nut is size 1-5/16" (just looked at it to be sure)
NOTE: When you put the flywheel back on, be sure to accurately torque that flywheel nut to 105 foot pounds.... whatever that is in mm. Failing to do so will absolutely result in a sheared flywheel key & damage to the C/S and Flywheel tapers.
Puller bolt thread appears is 1/4x24 (inches)Comment
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Thanks Joe,
I'm in Fort Walton Beach. I'm sure I'll be looking for some of those parts you talk about. I would think the shipping would be pretty fast. Depending on what you call Central west I have kids is Tallahassee.Comment
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Central west is Tampa area.Originally posted by sjoefl01 View Post
However be advised that this is not my site nor am I acquainted with this business. I'm just one of the guys, same as you but with a outboard background going back to 1960. I have no idea where this business is actually located.Comment
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I need some advice here. I got the flywheel off and I timing advance mechanism all cleaned up. It wasn't that bad. It turns freely but every once in a while it kind of wants to bind. I don't want to put it back together and have the same problem. I was thinking that I might lube it with some 90W so that it stick on there better. What do you think?Comment
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Never mind. I read on another web site that you could put some washers behind the little holders. I worked on it a little more and used the washers. I did lube it with a little 90W. I think I'll put a new key on the flywheel. Not sure if that is necessary but I'm sure it wont hurt anything. It looks like it may have been stressed. I don't want to have to go back in again.Comment
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You didn't read my reply #4 any too closely did you? Here's a copy/paste portion of it:Originally posted by sjoefl01 View Post
If it sticks, it is usually due to one of the four "L" clamps being slightly too tight. You may be able to pry the offending clamp upwards slightly with a long thin blade screwdriver.
At the most, you would need to remove the flywheel, stator, and timer base, then clean everything thoroughly. Use grease on the brass bushing portion of the timer base and the related top portion of the powerhead's upper main bearing assembly, BUT use only OIL on the timer base nylon bearing retainer.
Upon assembly, check all of the "L" clamps for being overtight and install a very thin spacer washer under any offending clamp that cause the timer base to stick.Last edited by Joe Reeves; 02-25-2017, 02:00 PM.Comment
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You didn't follow my reply very closely. I did exactly what you said including adding the spacers. That is how I knew to look closely at the clamps. My question was in regard to replacing the light oil lubricant on the nylon spacer with 90W in hopes that it would not disperse quite as soon as the light oil that was suggested. Being that it was a deviation from what had been instructed I thought it wise to run it through here.Comment
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90w on the ring will be fine.Comment
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Better grease
use dielectric grease if you can get it. Reg oils won'tstay on there. Dielectric grease is a high temp grease I use on brakes and anything electric like plug wires. It is good to have around for a lot of things. Available at any parts store.Comment
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