Temporarily disconnect the large RED cable from the electric starter, making sure that the metal terminal of that cable is not grounding out anywhere.

Turn the key to the START position momentarily. If the fuse does not blow, you can assume that the ignition switch, starter solenoid and the wiring circuitry are okay and that the electric starter may require reworking.

Make sure that the fuse is indeed a 20 ampere fuse. Also make sure that all wiring is proper, no fraying wires, loose terminals, etc.

Did the fuse blow on this test?

fuse is OK

I disconnected the red cable to the starter motor, leaving it connected to the solenoid on the other end and making sure it did not ground out.
I turned the switch on and heard a click. The fuse remained in tact.
So is it the starter motor?

That test indicates that when having the starter engaged, the starter is pulling so many amps that it is overcoming what that fuse can handle... BUT... the starter may be perfectly okay and probably is if it was cranking the engine okay previously... before you encounter that wiring snafu.

I would suggest that you check all of the wiring first... small wires, cables, clean all of the terminal connections and the components they attach to.

The red wire leading to the rectifier.... Reverse polarity not only destroys the wire, it shorts out the rectifier. If you simply repaired the red wire and DID NOT actually replace the rectifier, therein would be one problem as the rectifier is shorted out internally due to the reverse polarity snafu.

You can test the rectifier as follows:

(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

I did change out the rectifier

I replaced the burnt rectifier with a new one. It should still be working.
I have looked at the connections in the remote control where I moved wire. I am sure they are back where they came from and they look like clean connections.

Reverse polarity would have no effect upon the starter. If it was okay before the polarity error, it should be okay now. It would be nice if you could borrow a starter to try as they are expensive.

I'd suggest that you remove and dismantle the starter to see if a weird coincidence exists whereas the starter has actually failed in some manner that resulted in it shorting out that can be repaired.

ok

I don't think I could determine whether the starter has shorted out by examining it myself. Any time you take something like that to a repairman who can tell, it costs you $100 just to have him look at it and determine the problem with it if there is one.

The starter on it is the original. I have replaced them on cars without to much ado. Of course, they are not as expensive for cars.

I think I will bite the bullet and buy a starter.
Thanks for your help.