With your spark tester's air gap set to 7/16" and all spark plugs removed, thee spark should jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!... Does it?

If "no" spark is indeed your problem, disconnect the black/yellow wire (kill circuit) leading from the ignition switch to the powerpack... either at the ignition switch or the powerpack. If at the ignition switch, make sure the kill switch functions properly and is disconnected also. If you now have spark, replace the ignition switch.

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(Ignition Kill Circuit)
(J. Reeves)

A Black wire (ground) should lead from the powerhead to the powerpack. There will also be a Black/Yellow wire leading from the powerpack to a raised "M" terminal of the ignition switch. To complete the circuit, there will be a Black wire from the other "M" terminal of the ignition switch to ground.

When the key is in the OFF position = The two "M" terminals are connected,. effectively shorting/killing the ignition.

When the key in ON position = The two "M" terminals are not connected and the ignition is engaged.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

joe_omc32 | eBay
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If you had good spark initially when doing the spark test (all wires untouched), check your "Fuel Primer Solenoid"... a click sound when you push the key in when the key is in the ON position? (Engine Not Running). Fuel shoot out the small feed hoses?
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(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pa$$ thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold pa$$ageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

joe_omc32 | eBay
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thanks for the feedback.. will let you know how it goes this weekend...

put the spark tester on and no spark condition is verified.

tore the switch apart and didn't want to mess with trying to disconnect the black yellow wire as there was no room and a lot of grease...

attempted to find the same wire near the power pack but couldn't fin a spot to disconnect it by itself.

I unplugged the two multi-wire connectors to the power pack,, reconnected them, hit the back of the powerpack with the screwdriver handle and it fired up... go figure..

put everything back together and it is fine now..

looks like the power pack has some wires that were pinched when it was put on but not cut... somewhere in there something wasn't connected...

thanks again for the help.

Well, at least you know where to look if a next time occurs.

Most power-packs dislike being hit with screwdrivers and decide to work!