[QUOTE=oletrout;11775]1.5 hp Evinrude year 1969 Mod.# 1902
Have the above outboard,starts well when it is warmed up,but a real bugger when cold!! Have to attach a drill and socket. REbuilt carb with new kit,new points,condensor and magneto,,plug wire and plug.
Compression is 90psi.. any suggestions where to look next??
I removed flywheel and armature plate... put oil around the seal on top of crank,turned crank over and I saw bubbles coming up.. surely this small air leak would not be the cause for hard starting... very little play in lateral movement on top end of crank.
Any help in this matter would be great!! Thanks..Oletrout

Is the choke working and closing properly ?

The spark plug should be a Champion J6C plug gaped at .030.

With the spark plug removed, test the spark which should jump a 1/4" Air Gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

Those single cylinder low horsepower models are notoriously known for losing their compression. If this is an issue, install new rings after cleaning up the cylinder bore and establishing a cross-hatch pattern upon the cylinder wall.

Clean the carburetor and as "Boobie" suggests... make sure that choke butterfly is working as it should.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Did all the above with the exception of new rings... chokes works well... I have a 1970 1.5 Johnson with similar issues... this one I am going to re ring it...all I want
is one great working 1.5 Hp without pumping in a whole lot of money... have a great working 3 hp Johnson...1960, and a few 1964 3 Hp Johnsons and evinrudes..
Thanks..Jack

Choke works as per normal.