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No spark on Cylinder #1

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  • No spark on Cylinder #1

    Hi all! Looking for some help with my diagnosis.

    I have a 2000 50HP J50PLSSM motor. I pulled the boat out to get it ready to take fishing for the first time in about 9 months. I was running fine when I last used it but I went ahead and drained all of the fuel and replaced with new fuel. I placed the water hose adaptor on and attempted to start the motor. The motor would run but quickly die. After checking the fuel system out I received some advice to check the spark with a spark tester. When I did this I was only getting spark across a 7/16 gap on cylinder #2. Below is what I have tested along with the results and what I have replaced.

    Coil:
    Old coil had 290 ohms on cylinder #2 and 326 ohms on Cylinder #1. Manual indicated 275 +/- 50. I had a new coil on hand that I received when I purchased the boat so I went ahead and installed it and it was right at 275 per side.

    Power Pack
    At the time I did not have a peak voltage adaptor or a peak meter and read that the power pack in most cases is normally the issue when there is a spark issue. I ordered a used power pack from and EBAY salvage site and installed. Retested the spark and still no spark on Cylinder #1 side of the coil.

    I ordered a Peak voltage adaptor from Amazon and then checked the Ohms and Peak voltage on the Timing sensor and charge coil. Below are the results.

    Timing sensor:
    Ohm test I have the 3 pin connector and I had 26 ohms from both the B-A and the B-C pins.
    Tested voltage to ground with engine cranking - All 3 terminals did not show any voltage. Manal indicates that is a good thing.
    Peak voltage test - Placed the adaptor on my multimeter and the DC indication was 2 on B-C and 2.5 on B-A. Manual indicates .5 or higher is good.

    Charge Coil:
    Voltage to ground with engine cranking - No voltage indicated on terminal A or B
    Peak voltage test with engine cranking - 210 volts Manual indicates it needs to be 230 or higher.

    Question: Would the low voltage from the charge coil cause a no spark on one cylinder?

    Power pack: I do not have a post adaptor to place between primary lead and the coil (PL-88 I believe) so I did not run a peak test on the old or new power pack. Is there a way to test with just the Peak Adapter and multimeter?

    Thanks in advance for the help!

  • #2
    If only firing on one cylinder then probably a bad ignition coil or bad trigger coil. Swap the ignition coils on cylinders and see if problem stays on that cylinder or stays with coil to other cylinder. check peak voltage test from trigger coils at cranking speed, should be about same voltage on all.
    Regards
    Boats.net
    Johnson Outboard Parts

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    • #3
      Sorry, I indicated timing sensor above but that is the trigger coil and it met all the specs from the testing instructions in the manual. I tested the old and new ignition coils and they both are good per Ohm testing. When one or the other is installed it only provides spark out of the lower side of the coil as mounted on the Motor. I am using an adjustible spark tester that plugs into the plug wire and then I ground the other end to the motor. I use the same plug wire to test both sides of the coil.

      The only thing that did not meet the testing requirements was the charge coil and it was 20 volts below the 230 minimum requirement. I would think that if that was the issue then I would have an issue on both sides of the coil.

      Thanks for the response!
      Last edited by Calcat85; 05-01-2020, 05:53 PM.

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      • #4
        If you are using a peak reading voltmeter or a direct voltage adapter on a digital multimeter and are sure of trigger coil output test and CDI output test to ignition coils are testing good then the Stator would be the only component that failed and need replacing.
        Regards
        Boats.net
        Johnson Outboard Parts

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by boats.net View Post
          If you are using a peak reading voltmeter or a direct voltage adapter on a digital multimeter and are sure of trigger coil output test and CDI output test to ignition coils are testing good then the Stator would be the only component that failed and need replacing.
          Sorry for the delay but I have been to focused at work. I plan to pull the fly wheel this afternoon to see if I see any melted or dripping material from the trigger coil, charge coil or stator. I did use a direct voltage adaptor on a digital multi meter. I feel good about the test results. I did not perform a test on the power pack but I have had two installed and had the same issue with both.

          Thanks for the help.

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